Messages: 42778 Location: Washington, DC
Registered: November 2003
SIHH 2017 - Vacheron Constantin Métiers d'Art Villes Lumières
Wed, 21 December 2016 09:16
Ref. 86222/000G-B101 - Geneva; Ref. 86222/000G-B104 - Paris; Ref. 86222/000G-B105 - New York
The new Métiers d'Art Villes Lumières collection depicts thru a bird's-eye view, miniature tableau of various cities.
Traditional Grand Feu champlevé enamelling mingles with hand-applied precious powder, an art never yet used in Fine Watchmaking. The first three models in this new collection are dedicated to Geneva, Paris and New York. These night-flight depictions will soon continue over other cities.
Grand Feu enamelling
For each of the dials, the Vacheron Constantin master enameller first examined the possibilities afforded by champlevé in order to highlight the shapes of the streets, gardens and stretches of water. After hollowing out the gold dial by hand according to the chosen outlines, he then applied successive layers of translucent coloured enamels. Between each coating, the dial is fired at the extremely high temperature of 850°C. These crucial and delicate stages, masterfully guided by intuition and governed by stringent discipline acquired over time, enable the powdered glass mixed with colouring oxides to be melted, transformed and then vitrified by cooling with the inevitable risk that the dial may crack or flaws may form. In the Métiers d'Art Villes Lumières collection, the master enameller has taken up the additional challenge of composing subtly translucent and dark shades in order to reproduce the singular night-time atmosphere.
Luminous rain
Vacheron Constantin invited the Japanese artist Yoko Imai to associate her art with that of the enamelling artisan. Trained by the great Japanese masters, she has developed her own artistic technique: calligraphy-inspired painting on canvas, inspired by precious powder. For Vacheron Constantin, she has for the first time adapted this process to the enamel of a watch dial, while creating a chiaroscuro effect.
The technique of applying precious powders borrows a fundamental principle from the art of calligraphy: the quest for balance and purity. Using a thin stylus, the powder particles are individually affixed using a technique that remains a jealously guarded secret. The luminous magic of the completed tableau depends on this extremely rigorous approach: each fragment is perfectly positioned in its rightful place and there is no room for anything random or superfluous.
Each of the powder specks is thus chosen according to its size and its shimmer, then worked on from several angles and with various types of light, so as to ensure enhanced radiance and realism. First of all, tiny gold grains form the luminous backdrop. Then diamond and platinum powder are successively applied to create shiny and dark effects, punctuated by pearl spangles. Their varying brightness makes it possible adjust the direction and size of the luminescent areas, in order to infuse the dial with life and warmth. On the enamel base, between the raised gold ridges, tens of thousands of spangles shine in the light. The particles of precious powder, all of varying shades and degree of luminosity, interact both amongst themselves and with the dark shades of the Grand Feu enamelled background. The radiance of the composition is more intense in the dial centre and gradually softens towards the outer edges of the dial.
Hand-crafted during more than three months and born from a mingling of artistic crafts, each dial is truly unique. A magnifying glass provided in the presentation box provides a chance to admire the workmanship in detail.
The lights of Geneva, Paris and New York
The flyover begins with Geneva, the cradle of technical and watchmaking, renowned for having nurtured the art of miniature painting on enamel. Vacheron Constantin was born in the heart of the town, in the St-Gervais district, where the cabinotiers had their workshops.
Then comes Paris, the "City of Light", a favourite among artists, philosophers and writers, known the world over for the inimitable elegance of its style. The aerial view of the capital retraces the life of iconic landmarks such as the Place de l'Étoile and the Champs-Elysées, the Seine, as well as the Eiffel Tower famed for its light effects, viewed from above and engraved in gold.
Finally comes New York, the city that never sleeps. Reproducing it stretches the technique of applying precious powders to its absolute limits, with the highest vantage point that could possibly be depicted. Sprinkled across the Grand Feu enamel, tens of thousands of precious dots animate the luminous outlines of Manhattan Island with Central Park, the Hudson River and Brooklyn.
Technical Specifications:
The case, in 18kt white gold, measures 40mm x 8.9mm. It has double sapphire crystals and it is water resistant to 30 meters. The name of the city is engraved on the caseback.
Movement is the Swiss automatic Vacheron in-house caliber 2460SC with 27 jewels, 28,800 vph and a power reserve of 40 hours. A Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece, it features bevelling, circular-graining and polishing. The rotor is 22kt gold.
The dial is 18kt gold with Grand Feu champlevé and translucent enamel and powder of precious stones (diamonds, pearl) and precious metal (gold, platinum) filled by hand.
It comes on a black Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with alligator inner shell, large square scales and an 18kt white gold buckle.
It is delivered with a magnifying glass inside a luxury presentation box. Only available at Vacheron Constantin boutiques.
- Jorge Merino