Watch Review By: Andrew Grace Watch Brand: TAG Heuer Watch Model: Carrera GMT Date Purchased: 10/03 List Price: US$ 1500
Watch Rating: Movement & Functions 6/10 (I’d give a 10/10 to a Lange 1 and a 3/10 to an Oris) Case & Crystal 18/20 (This depends on whether you love or hate mineral crystal) Dial & Hands 15/15 (These have to be seen to be believe, best finishing in this class) Strap or Bracelet 5/10 (If I had bought the deployment clasp I would have given a 7/10) User Manual & Accessories 2/5 (The bare minimum) Comfort 15/20 (That crown is still biting) List Price Value 10/20 (Very few watches are worth their list price in my opinion, thus the low resale values, bar Rolex, which is perhaps a perceived value.)
A general comment to all who will read this review. Please note that having read the majority of reviews on this forum I have come to the conclusion that every watch purchased by “the forum” is flawless and perfect, whether it be a Seiko or a Patek. Now before everyone starts replying to this review with resentful and scorning comments it should be pointed out that everyone is entitled to their opinion and of course people are going to believe their watch is the best in the world (for themselves) and that’s why they bought it. I will not take this approach however and will try to review this watch to the best of my ability based on a critical review of the piece as a whole. Thus some people may think this review a little too critical but please try to remember I did buy this watch. I hope I am not shooting myself in the foot by doing this review and under valuing the time piece in case I ever want to sell it on (not something I normally do with my pieces, but if I ever want to get that A. Lange und Sohne I may have too). So here goes.....
P.S. If any information in this review is incorrect please advise me, so that I may be better informed in the future. Only by telling someone they are wrong can they ever hope to be right.
Movement: So what beats under the dial of this modern homage to the vintage Heuer (true originals) watch? An ETA calibre 2893 provides the rhythm section for whole piece. Beating at a standard 28,800 vibrations an hour, it comes with 21 jewels, and Incabloc shock absorber. The ETA 2893 is simply a 2892 with GMT module. My guess is that the watch uses some sort of double cannon pinion to divide down the rotations of the centre wheel to 24 turns a day, but I have nothing to validate this with, it just seems the simplest way of creating the GMT function. Compared to my Oris Big Crown with the ETA 2832 calibre the finishing on this watch is of above average quality. I am basing this on a direct comparison. As I can only compare it to watches I’ve seen first hand I’d rank it about average and one can immediately see it is something a little special. The ETA 2893 is the standard GMT movement for a number of watches including the seamaster GMT, the Tutima GMT and even the V-matic Globe II. The reason that this movement, (in my opinion) is used by a large number of manufacturers is simply that it is “proven technology”. From an engineers point “proven technology” is a big plus when buying a watch. Every product ever designed has teething problems. The ETA calibre 2892 movement has been around for decades and is simple in design and sturdy in manufacture. In order words I don’t see this movement ever having problems beyond the usual service. It has also been designed to chronometric standard, and while the basis for this lies in the ability to regulate the watch and is not always a function of finish / design it does mean that the movement has the ability to perform exceptionally well. Finally I appreciate that movement finishing is a fine art and that it adds not only to the visual appeal but the ability of a movement to out live its owner. However I have seen too many “cheap” movements still ticking away decades later and some more costly time pieces not working due to initial design problems, no matter how well they are finished. Therefore I will appreciate my watch for what it is (and maybe it will last a few generations).
The case of this watch is to TAG’s general high standard. Polished to a shiny gloss it does not seem to attracted scratches like my other watches, but then again it is slightly smaller. Unfortunately there is no display back but I’m learning to live with it and the crystal is a mineral glass, which I’m also learning to live with. Being used to sapphire crystal it comes as a surprise that I am really getting to like the mineral crystal, it has a soft glow to it and doesn’t smear like the sapphire. However I am aware that it will scratch more easily. The lugs of the watch are not rounded and are quite sharp in appearance and feel. However due to the position that watch sits at on the wrist they neither dig in or bite. The crown is a prefect size. Neither too big or too small. The only real problem I see with the crown is the sharp ridges of the pattern. While necessary (for grip?) these do tend to mark the wrist, but my Oris also did this and I think I am just getting used to the different elevations of the crown, which affect different areas of my wrist. Perhaps if the crown was smaller I’d be complaining about the difficulties of changing the time.
The hour markers and this watch are fantastic. Polished to a mirror finish they are perfectly shaped and applied. The dial is a deep black that really shows up my other watches and the printing is of comparable standard to anything I have seen thus far. Overall the dial of this watch is not very striking. It takes time for you to actually realise that this is actually a very well thought out (or copied!!!) dial. It is easy to read and the GMT hand offsets the dial wonderfully, adding a subtle touch of colour. The hands of this watch match the hour marker exactly and overall are very pleasing. This is not something that I can describe in detail in writing and is really something that has to be viewed first hand. Therefore next time you walk by your local watch shop stop and take a look.
Leather like all the rest!!!! The tang buckle version that I have is quite nice, but the strap is not to my taste. I know Heuer came up with the brilliant idea of making a pattern of holes in the strap to imitate the holes in the leather gloves of race drivers but I’m afraid it just doesn’t work for me. However the new edition of this watch comes on a “proper” crocodile leather strap and a deployment clasp, much more fitting. Therefore I am changing mine in the near future and adding a deep red strap which I think will offset the dial (I will post pictures when available).
Nice leather cylindrical box, which the watch fits into very snugly. Not the best presentation box I have ever seen but then again once the watch comes out of the box the box is relatively useless. Therefore if the packaging is a concern for you, it needs to be pointed out that you may have a problem with this watch. This is not where in the league of the chronoswiss packaging I have seen and only slightly better than Oris in appearance (but obviously a little more expensive).
For the price of this watch you could possibly buy an Omega GMT or similar. Nowadays the Heuer name seems to have been slightly tarnished by TAG’s lack of loyalty to its roots. I think they are only realising this now and hence the list of re-editions. So may people will opt for the Omega, with its history and chronometer cert. However this watch is not an Omega GMT and does not try to be. This watch has a wonderful dial (which in my opinion outclasses the Omega, though the Omega does have the better finished movement, both things not being equal) and at 35mm could be used for a dress watch, something which I don’t think the Omega would be suitable for. Having worn this watch for a few days now it has grown on me more and more. At first I have to say I was a little put out buy its size, now I can only wonder how I ever wore a watch bigger than it. It has also changed my opinion of TAG Heuer watches and I think this is a step in the right direction for them. It challenges their Link and 2000 series watches with something new. However the “something new” really lies in something old and it is quite pleasant to see Heuer getting back to its roots with some “vintage” designs. These re-editions (even though they have never been released before!!) annoy some people to no end, but when looking at this watch forget history and everything about a company and judge the piece for what it is. Today is tomorrows history.
- Anonymous - Wed, 08 October 2003 12:55 (4186 clicks)