Messages: 46603 Location: Third Planet
Registered: May 2005
PHOTO REPORT: Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second and Universal Time
Fri, 30 October 2015 16:08
1958 - The International Geophysical Year
Nearly 70 of the world's countries participated in scientific and explorative IGY projects in the interest of cooling (or perhaps heating) the tensions of the Cold War. In commemoration of the two American nuclear submarines which surfaced through the ice at the North Pole, Jaeger-LeCoultre presented each commander with a Geophysic.
The Geophysic was built from the proven military watches in the brand's arsenal, with significant upgrades to its 478 caliber as a timepiece capable of withstanding the severe conditions of a pole-going nuclear sub.
In 2014, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Geophysic 1958, a 38.5mm tribute to the original.
Shown here in stainless steel, the watch proved a tremendous success.
PT, RG, SS and the original Geophysic
My report on the 2014 launch of the Geophysic 1958 can be seen here
A month ago, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced two new pieces into the Geophysic line
The Geophysic True Second
and the Geophysic Universal Time
Both are available in stainless steel and rose gold
Geophysic True Second
Geophysic Universal Time
Before we get into the particulars, it's important to set the context. The Geophysic 1958 from 2014 is a toast to the past. Jaeger-LeCoultre has become a trusted steward of its past, having produced faithful tributes to its Polaris and Deep Sea Alarm dive watches, as well as an expansive re-invention of the Reverso line since 2011. The brand expertly celebrates its important history with watches to satisfy today's collector.
Enter the Geophysic True Second and Universal Time. These watches conjure the approach taken in designing the original Geophysic, with a deliberate push forward. Not in terms of complexity or complication--we'll get to that in a moment--but rather in mantra, and its implementation. The train is leaving, and it's not circling back.
The Geophysic True Second hosts the result of 8 years of research in Jaeger-LeCoultre's Extreme Lab, a space where technical wizardry is realized.
Lubricant-free escapements, exotic materials, and other technical innovations are the daily pursuit in the Extreme Lab, and eight years after the Gyrolab balance first appeared in the Extreme LAB watch, it has made its way into the collection in the Geophysic True Second.
The Gyrolab balance
While reducing air friction, the Gyrolab performs significantly better than a conventional balance. It also happens to be a distinguishing design touch, in that the veritable anchor of this new caliber is the brand's logo in a reflective balance.
The Gyrolab in the caliber 770
Perhaps the most intriguing feature of the new Geophysics is in the name itself: True Second
The True (or Deadbeat) Second complication is a rarity today, but was a notable focus of precision in the 18th Century. Imagine the ability to precisely measure increments of time. First, you have to stop time with measurable divisions.
We move from the swinging pendulum of a clock, to the ticking seconds of a pocket watch, to the arresting reset of time...and you have a chronograph. That is of course many years of compressed watchmaking history, and undoubtedly an impressive pursuit. As well, a fitting complication for the explorative mantra of the Geophysic.
Here you can see the second hand in action, jumping precisely to the second markers. Because of the compact design of the True Second mechanism powered by the main barrel of the watch, there is no additional energy intake to disrupt the timekeeping, and no noticeable vibration in the second hand.
The mechanism is fully integrated into the movement, so the wheel giving the impulse for the true second is at the center of the caliber and directly connected to the second hand, resulting in almost no play in the gear train.
There were a handful of deadbeat second timepieces introduced this year at Baselworld, ranging from $30,000 to $200,000. With the exception of the Habring (which is a Habring deadbeat mechanism paired with an ETA movement), the deadbeat seconds is often paired with additional complications and at a much higher price point than the Geophysic True Second, which is just over $9000.
Good value, some might say. Or perhaps the price is simply as bold as incorporating trickle-down innovation into a new approach to production.
In its Hybris Artistica collection, Jaeger-LeCoultre pressed itself to the limit in finishing, unleashing pinnacle skill in 12 unique timepieces.
While no one is going to place the new Geophysic as the 13th member of the Hybris Artistica collection, the finishing details on the case and caliber came deliberately from transferring the efforts of the extreme collection into the brand's production level. From the satin brushed case to exquisitely polished lugs, the solid gold rotor to the loupe-rewarding details of the caliber finishing, the new Geophysic is the result of asking what can we bring from on high?
This is not a tribute to the original Geophysic, nor is it the JLC classic Master series. It is forward thinking, more of an instrument piece on the wrist than last year's 1958.
It wears bolder than its 39.6mm.
It's not so much about the number, but about its stature.
L-->R Geophysic True Second, original Geophysic, Geophysic 1958
We often use adjectives found on a sliding aesthetic scale of Classic to Sporty, and it's important here to acknowledge the balance struck in the Geophysic True Second. Seductively teutonic, this is a piece that will likely expand the appeal of the brand, because the watch ably expresses muscularity without giving up authentic refinement.
Weekend appeal, even in Wednesday's boardroom
The Geophysic Universal Time (41.6mm) features the same functionality as the True Second, with the addition of an day/night hour disc which turns independently. To differentiate the terminology, a World Timer with a rotating disc has you set the local city, whereas this Universal Time has a fixed city disc, and you simply adjust the hour wheel to the city, and set only your local time after that.
With a world map against a beautiful lacquered dial
Which lightens as you approach the center, adding to the dimensionality of the dial
Both the Geophysic True Second and the Universal Time have an hour hand quickset, so you can adjust your local time forwards or backwards as you travel.
Model information:
GEOPHYSIC TRUE SECOND SS ($9,050) and PG ($17,500)
39.6mm x 11.7mm
GEOPHYSIC UNIVERSAL TIME SS ($15,000) and PG ($25,000)
41.6mm x 11.8mm
Last week in Beverly Hills, Jaeger-LeCoultre invited Timezone members to see the new Geophysic models, all of which are available worldwide.
Thank you to the team at Jaeger-LeCoultre for a wonderful event in Los Angeles.
And for a wearable reminder that the greatest reward is the push forward.
Howard - Moderator...Audemars Piguet & Jaeger-LeCoultre