Messages: 1263 Location: New Jersey, USA
Registered: December 2008
Rolex YACHT-MASTER 116622 bl: Initial Impressions
Wed, 13 February 2013 20:54
I have been on the hunt for a blue dialed sports watch for about a year prior to purchasing this watch. I found blue dials attractive and they really stood out from my black, gray, silver and white dialed watches. However, what I found was that blue is a very elusive color and when I looked at them in person, I found that they almost NEVER look like there manufacturer glamour shot. I looked at blue dialed options from Audemars Piguet, Breitling, Omega, Rolex, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin. In fact, many dials where far less legible when worn on my wrist at AD.
I have had a long-term love-hate relationship with the Rolex brand; having praise for their engineering and design and but disdain for their marketing driven success and the ubiquity as the icon of luxury to the masses. So for many years, I did not ever really look at them. That is until the other day, when I tried on the YACHT-MASTER and immediately brought it home.
The YACHT-MASTER 116622 bl is a lesser seen and relatively new model for Rolex who is a company that introduces models very rarely. Looking at their ads, it has been positioned by Rolex sort of as a luxury version of a Submariner for Thurston Howell III types in their yachts. The YACHT-MASTER was a mono-chromatic, low contrast, platinum dialed luxury sports watch over the last decade until the blued dialed 116622 bl was introduced last year at Baselworld 2012.
At first glance, it does look somewhat llike a Submariner/GMT Master II from afar. But when you look a little closer you find some differences. The case is 40.0 mm (without the crown) and is 12.9 mm which is thicker than the GMT Master II (12.3 mm) and thinner than a Submariner (13.9 mm). The case length across the lugs is a bit different at 47.2 mm vs. 47.8 mm for the GMT Master II and 48.0 mm for the Submariner. The bezel insert is satin 950 platinum with polished raised numbers and 15 minute count down scale. Unlike a divers bezel, it is bidirectional with distinct 30 second increments. The light gray colored platinum bezel changes the overall appearance and proportion of the dial from the iconic dark bezel look of a Rolex. Despite its 100 m water resistance, like the Submariner, the watch employs Rolex's Triplock winding crown. The case itself borrows also from its cousin references but is polished and not brushed and it is slightly more refined in the taper of crown guards and lugs. The lugs also curve downward around the wrist a bit more which is reflected in its shorter lug length. I find their shape to be more comfortable on my wrist.
The dial is what truly sets off the watch to me. The brushed sun-ray finished, cobalt blue brass dial changes its appearance based on the angle that you look at it and the lighting. The white gold hour and minute hands and chapter ring chromalight appliqués are pure Rolex in the design. The second hand is a beautiful vermillion color that sings against the reddish blue hues of the dial. I still need to get use to the cyclops maginifier over the date. the jury is still out on this classic Rolex design element. This combination of elements was key to hooking me in to the design. The watch name on dial is also decorated in red which ties things together visually in my opinion.
The movement hidden within the oyster case is the venerable Rolex Calibre 3135 that was first launched 25 years ago. This movement is legendary for its accurate timekeeping and robustness. The movement operates at 28,800 bph and has a 50 hour power reserve. The bracelet is a 20 mm solid linked, oyster bracelet with polished center links like a GMT Master II with an Oysterlock safety clasp with an Easylink extension. It's a very nicely finished comfortable bracelet but by no means the best that I have worn.
This is definitely not a Rolex for everyone, in that while it is definitely a Rolex once explored, it does not say Rolex from a distance which matters to some. The bezel is key to this. The dial is truly stunning set against grey of the platinum and polish of the steel. The red dial accents sing in contrast to the cobalt background. I recommend that you go see one in person (that is if you can find one, which may be challenging). The overall wrist feel of the watch is quite solid (139 g) with a good weight balance between the bracelet and case. I am sure there are many platinum dial YACHT-MASTER fans out there (not me), but the dial in blue transforms the watch from a classy subtle aesthetic to a vibrant, yet elegant sports watch. I still need to take some better photos. I will post more when I can.
- iim7v7im7