Messages: 2188 Location: New York
Registered: November 2003
Analysis of three manual perpetual chronographs
Sun, 28 October 2012 16:00
Last night, I posted a quick shot (taken on a cell phone) of three wonderful perpetual calendar chronographs: Patek 5970, Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionelle, and Lange Datograph Perpetual. (The picture is repeated just below.) Here is a short discussion of each of three pieces. I'll start by saying that each one is a fantastic watch.
1. Patek 5970. This watch, of the three, certainly has achieved the most exalted status among watch collectors. Patek has long history of perpetual chronographs, and this watch is a great member of that lineage. The dial is well balanced, the information in the dial apertures (day of week and month) are easy to read, and the dial color is the perfect complement for the rose gold case. The case size is very nice -- and fits the Lemania-based movement well -- and the lugs are fantastic. Patek's finishing of the movement is, to my eye, very nice (though I am far from an expert). Of the three watches, it may be the most balanced and most elegant.
2. VC Patrimony: Many people have objected to the size of the Patrimony Perpetual Chrono. Admittedly, at 43 mm, it is fairly large for a "dressy" watch. But I have not found it overly large at all, and I find the dial easier to read than that of the Patek, which seems a bit cramped by comparison. Vacheron also does a wonderful job finishing the Lemania-based movement, and the small window displaying the number of the year in the leap year cycle is a nice addition. The moonphase disc stands out as a work of art; it is beautiful, and so different from most moonphase displays. Given that the VC and Patek share a common base, the watches manage to have a very different feel.
3. Lange Datograph Perpetual: The Lange, like the VC, has had its share of critics. People say the dial is hard to read and the moonphase is too small. I don't share those criticisms. Sure, the moonphase is on the small side; the result is that it adds a nice color accent to the dial, rather than being a centerpiece of attention (as it is on the VC). And while the day and month do require a bit of attention, the date and time are easy to read at a quick glance, and that's the data I need most often. The movement -- as on all versions of the Datograph -- is phenomenal; the complex, three-dimensional layout of the Datograph movement is perhaps second-to-none. The case design (more Teutonic than that of the VC and the Patek), the luminous hands, and the case/dial color gives this watch a more casual feel than its Swiss counterparts.
Not a particularly critical analysis, I acknowledge, but each of three watches stands out in one or two respects, and each pulls together all of the elements into a wonderful package.
- Bob L.